London celebrated the 40th anniversary of its fashion week this year, but instead of praise most of the influencers I follow skipped it or repeatedly mentioned that it is less important than it used to be. That’s a shame because LFW has much to offer, especially for people looking under-the-radar designers. I certainly discovered several designers I’d never heard of, and I will be looking to them for more than inspiration.
Here are my 27 favorite looks from the very underrated London Fashion Week runways. Let me know what your favorite s are.
Mithridate
Starting with one of my favorite discoveries, a Chinese brand called Mithridate. Creative director, Demon Zhang, worked with McQueen and John Galliano before launching their brand in…2022, I think. This appears to be their fourth collection and, as far as I can tell, this is a brand that treats clothing as art. It’s a feast for the eyes.
Exhibit A, This insane dress! If it was in any other fabric I would find it a little too feminine for my style, but in leather, with the incredible floral details…. I’m dead.
The color and texture of whatever is making up this jacket are captivating. It almost looks like fine coals.
The seaming of this mini dress is so interesting, and the sil/satin of it gives off a bronzy, metallic brown that I love.
This blazer is not what I would pick out for myself, but the tailoring, beading, and appliques are so beautiful.
Temperley London
Another new-to-me brand is Temperley London. I have a soft spot in my heart for the music, fashion, and architecture of the 1920s and this collection captures that sophisticated, bohemian playfulness that is so alluring.
I am obsessed with this coat. It’s bold because of the high contrast, and oversized print, but not overpowering because of the softness of the floral motif. It’s also a very simple coat in terms of shape; minimalist so as not to compete with the boldness of the pattern.
This dress is so beautiful. It’s soft and luxurious and everything I would want to wear if I was a 1920s socialite or a Greek goddess.
This suit is a minimalist triumph. It’s a classic black and white suit with design details that make it anything but basic. The curved lapels, skinny bowtie, cropped and cuffed pants, the shirt cuffs peeking out, and the hat. Altogether this look is captivating, playful, and surprisingly feminine.
This black evening dress is also exceptional. I love the high slit and the side cutouts. It’s simple but not boring, relatively modest yet incredibly sexy.
JW Anderson
One of the big names at LFW is always JW Anderson. The creative director of Loewe is known for his humorous, sometimes absurdist fashion, and his eponymous brand echos that sensibility as well. Although, I thought this collection was considerably more wearable than some of the previous ones I’ve seen.
This sheer red dress makes cleaver great use of the tassels and twisted draping to provide helpful coverage, It’s very creative!
The white version of this seems to offer a little more protection up top, and I like the cut of it a little more.
I LOVE this entire look, particularly the folded waist on the pants. Also, great texture on the bag!
This dress has such a fun shape. I think it’s fascinating that it looks rigid and impossibly soft all at once. Incredible construction.
Erdem
Another LFW headliner is Erdem. It’s a brand I appreciate but seldom find personally appealing, BUT I found some exceptional looks this season that I would put on preorder…if I were the kind of person who had the money to preorder Erdem.
This first look is so cool, minus the shoes (hate them). Tragically, I don’t think the cut of the coast would suit me, but the skirt and top I swoon for.
The proportions of this set are so fun. I appreciate that they let the cut of these sets speak for themselves instead of covering them in the usual floral patterns that dominate Erdem collections.
That said, THIS COAT IS EVERYTHING!!!!! The oversized floral print mixed with the oversized houndstooth! In those colors! With that collar! I’ve died and gone to coat heaven.
Roksanda
The looks I liked best from this collection might not be the most representative of what the designer typically puts out, but Zendaya wore my favorite look from the collections, so I feel vindicated in my taste.
This is the suit Zendaya wore the day before the show and I think it’s such a powerful look. It feels Japanese to me, I have no idea if it is, but I love it. That belt is perfection.
This jumpsuit and cape also portray confidence and power. I love have clean the lines are and how unfussy it is. I am always amazed when designers are able to make simple things captivating.
The texture of this top is absolutely beautiful. The long fringe adds some movement and drama, and the overall look makes me think off-duty ninja princess. That might not be a thing, but in my head, it looks like
Simone Rocha
This was not a designer I was expecting to find anything I liked. Simone Rocha’s collections are often hyper-feminine in a way that makes my skin crawl and activates my gag reflex. I’m not a fan. BUT I did find a few looks from the AW24 collection that I genuinely think are great. It’s a pleasant surprise and a reminder to keep an open mind.
This sheer dress is sexy without being overly revealing. I think the fur bra and collar are a lot of fun.
This coat is great. I love the braiding that turns into a fringe of a sort. I think the silhouette is fantastic. It’s feminine but has a lot of edge to it.
Emilia Wickstead
While Emilia Wickstead is known for very lady-like dresses, which are not usually my vibe, I really enjoyed this collection and think the whole show is worth looking at. Vogue noted that the designer has been branching out more and that this collection had a more genderless feel to its looks and styling. There is certainly a punk feel to some of the styling and I appreciate the balance and interest that brought.
This look is beautiful. I love the burnt yellow/gold color, I’m wearing a sweater in this shade of yellow right now. The shine, texture, and print of the pants are such a great contrast to the knit of the cardigan. I want to wear it now!
This second look is another great example of taking a more feminine look and giving it a masculine balance. The cut of the sweater and the shirt collar peaking out has a schoolboy feel to it. The dress socks and chunkier loafer also bring some masculine energy to the lool. I’d wear this in a minute.
David Koma
I’ve seen a few David Loma shows because of the influencers I follow you YT, and in my head, his designs are often on the sexy side. It’s a feeling more than a fact, but this season did include mini dresses, lots of sheer looks, and figure-hugging silhouettes. But there was plenty of coverage for those who wanted it, and great tailoring.
This coat appears twice in the collection, first with fur or feather trim, and then this version. I hate feathers, so I gravitated toward this one. I think the crystal embellishment is fun, but I kind of just want the coat in plain black because it’s SUCH a great cut. Again, I think this is Japanese-inspired tailoring, but I’m not sure. In any case, it’s got the potential to be a minimalist dream come true.
The second look is nothing groundbreaking, except that I really enjoyed the cutout placement. It’s not like I haven’t seen a diagonal cutout, but this somehow felt fresh. Generally, I’m guessing we’ll see cut-outs start to fade in popularity in the next year or two, they’ve lost their excitement factor because they are overdone.
Tolu Coker
If I could have attended one show during LFW, I would have wanted to attend Tolu Coker. Why? Because each look was interesting and fun, and because I instantly thought ‘Beyonce should wear that!” I googled it to see if she has, doesn’t look like it yet. It’s not that the clothes are sexy, they have presence and personality and they are really cool. It’s hard to explain, but I just loved this show.
This all-white look is just SO good. I love the collar, the corset waits, the layering. It’s feminine and powerful and sexy and modest and ….it’s just SOOOOOO good.
This second look feels so different, it’s hard to believe they are in the same collection. The contrasting fabrics create a cool optical line. The look is simultaneously business and biker. It’s just so interesting to look at.
Ahluwalia
This is another new-to-me designer that I really enjoyed. I’m only including one look here but the show is worth a look. There is so much joy in the clothing. The colors and patterns are vibrant, the styling is very cool and fresh. I appreciated the aliveness of it all.
I could have picked so many looks but this sweater was my favorite piece. The color gradient, the designs, the cut. It’s one of those pieces that will put an instant smile on your face when you wear it and probably on the face of anyone who sees you. It’s just joyful.
And that’s a wrap on London. I enjoyed discovering a few designers and can’t wait to see what they bring to the table next season. Don’t sleep on LFW, let me know what you liked best from the shows!
Rainy Day Rags 